How to Choose Fine Pearls
Pearls are very alluring and hold a quality that both defines elegance
and natural beauty. There are more varieties and availability of pearls
today than ever before. The “cultured pearl” now rivals with
fine diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies.
Today most pearls are cultured, meaning that the mollusk is purposely
inserted with an irritant or “nucleus” from which it creates
a pearl. A better way to think of the difference between natural pearls
and cultured pearls is to think of the natural pearl as a result of the
mollusk working alone and the cultured pearls as a product of nature being
helped by science. Cultured pearls are not “fake” like many
people may think. The culturing process takes from two to three years
and is a very delicate process. The pearl farmers have little control
on what the outcome of the pearl will look like or if the mollusk will
reject the nucleus. Not all pearls are fine quality or even desirable
at all. The end result is ultimately a consequence of nature.
Choosing pearls that are of the best quality are determined by luster,
nacre thickness and quality (the outer layer), color, surface perfection,
shape, and size. The biggest factor of pearl quality is nacre thickness
and quality which determines how long the pearl will last. Nacre thickness
determines the longevity of the pearl and nacre quality determines how
light reflects through the layers of the pearls. High luster and iridescence
come from high quality nacre and any pearl with these characteristics
has quality, thick nacre. When judging nacre look for uniform iridescence,
intensity of luster, cracks and peeling, estimate thickness near the drill
hole between the nacre and the shell bead (nacre is lighter). Pearls are
very thick with at least .5 mm on all pearls, thick with at least.5mm
on most pearls, medium with between .35 and .5 mm on most pearls, and
thin with .25 mm or less on most pearls.
Luster is also important and one of the first factors to notice. Luster
is an intense brightness that illuminates from within the pearl rather
than just being “shiny” like in imitation pearls. The intense
brightness results from light being reflected throughout the numerous
layers of nacre. Quality pearls will have a sharp contrast between the
brightest area where direct light is hitting the pearls and the shaded
area creating an illusion of a “ball within the pearl.” Check
for luster by examining them under a fluorescent lamp and rolling them
from side to side to examine uniform luster. Examine pearls over a light
gray or white material and never black because it is harder to see the
true quality of the pearl.
Pearl color is also important. When choosing pearls note there body color
and overtones. The most desirable and more rare white pearls have “rose”
colored overtones. Cream colored pearls are more affordable because they
are less rare. Also, pearls can have tones rated in intensity. Darker
toned pearls are more desirable and expensive compared to lighter toned
pearls. Many natural body colors are available in pearls including white,
black, gray, blue, gold, pink, and green. Distinctive colored pearls are
rarer and harder to find. Have a qualified gemologist check the pearls
to make sure they have not been dyed, especially for costlier pearls like
the black or golden varieties.
Examine pearls’ surface for blemishes. Although is best to check
for most pearl characteristics on a light background, it is best to check
for blemishes on a dark background. Check in both intense and diffused
light. No pearls are perfect and small blemishes can be sacrificed for
more important quality like nacre and luster. Pearls with higher luster
conceal blemishes better.
When choosing pearls also consider shape. There are three pearl shapes
including symmetrical, spherical, and baroque. The spherical is the rarest
and most desirable. Symmetrical pearls include teardrop or pear-shaped
pearls and desirable but usually less expensive than spherical pearls.
Baroque pearls are irregularly shaped and often the least expensive.
Size should also be taken into consideration. Larger cultured pearls are
rarer and more expensive. Akoya pearls over 7 ½ millimeters are
much more costly and prices dramatically rise with each ½ millimeter
over 8 millimeters. South Sea and Tahitian pearls also have high increase
in price when size is over 15 millimeters.
One more factor to consider in pearls is the precision in matching the
pearl quality in a string of pearls. It is important to take all of the
above factors in consideration when matching the pearls. Graduated pearls
also take careful matching. Pearl matching affects the value of the jewelry
because when pearls are not matched properly it takes away from the appearance
of the jewelry. Also, make sure the pearls are all drilled in the center
so they lay properly. Off-center drilled pearls will not lay correctly
and reduces the value of the piece.
It is always important to get a independent laboratory report when in
doubt of pearl enhancements that may have been employed to make the pearls
appear more valuable. Make sure the person appraising the pearls is a
Graduate Gemologist (GG) which is the Gemological Institute of America’s
(GIA)highest award.
Other things to consider when purchasing pearls include finding out what
the merchant’s return policy is. Make sure they have at least a
30-day full refund policy.
Pure Pearls at www.purepearls.com is an excellent place to find fine quality
pearl jewelry including Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearls, and Freshwater
pearls. Pure Pearls has all of its pearl pieces appraised by a Graduate
Gemologist and offers a 45-day guaranteed satisfaction policy.
About the Author
President Of Pure Pearls
http://www.purepearls.com
Classic. Timeless. Luxury
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